Here is a "HOW TO" thread that I have been meaning to do for two years.

There are several options when considering your Turbo Bering Oil feed and return lines.

This will be considered as a "BEST CASE SENARIO" . I realise that not everyone has the desire to spend as much on things or is interested in the Best solution at all cost so bear in mind that my solution might be overpriced in your opinion.

First, The Turbo is fed by oil from the engine and that oil is abused and turned into a milky white puss by the turbo berings spinning at as much as 125,000 RPM. This oil/puss is retuned to the oil pan and filtered and sent through again either to the engine or the turbo.

Q1: Where Do I get the oil from?
A1: On the back of the block, there are two sensors; the one closest to the Oil Filter is the one that triggers your Low Oil Pressure Light on the Dash, That's a good start. Get the fitting that fits the 1/8" Hole to an AN-4 Hose Fitting.

Q2: Why does the Oil Return Line Have to be so much larger than the Inlet?
A2: The Oil coming out of the housing is thrashed by the Bering and moves slowly. It needs to be able to be pulled by gravity and Air must be able to move up the line at the same time so there is no backpressure to prevent the oil from returning to the oil pan. Overlooking this step could result in inadequate oil supply and Bering failure due to starvation.

Q3: Why did you decide to Retun the oil to the Crank Support rather than the oil pan?
A3: As stated earlier, The oil return line must have air at the base, so for best results, the line should be as high away from the oil in the pan as possibe. It is possible to tap this adaptor to the oil pan but, make it as high as possible. I do not recomend this. The MSP returns the oil to the Crank Support Plate, Not the pan for a reason.

Q4: What Happens to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit after It's removed for the Oil Line?
A4: It gets placed into Fitting FBM2818 and hooked up to the wire again unless you have an Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge in Mind, then leave the stock sensor in the garbage and disconnect the line (The light will not come on if the pressure drops so keep an eye on the gauge)

Q5: Are You Obsessive Compulsive Brian?
A5: Yes, I'm the king of Overkill.

When you are building the Oil Supply Line. Make two Seperate Lines. A Short One With two straight Ends and a Long One with a 90 Deg and a Straight end. Join the two with the Tee Fitting that the oil sending unit fits into.

Here is what you need to do it like I did.

All Prices were from SUMMIT RACING...
Type the AER-******* Code in the Summit Part# Box to Find.
http://store.summitracing.com

Oil Line Parts...
(1) $15.00 US -- 1X AER-FCM1031 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -4 AN, -4 AN Adapter, Steel, Natural/Red, Each
(1) $25.00 US -- 1x AER-FCA0406 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN, 6 Ft. Length, Each
(1) $16.95 US -- 1x AER-FBM2818 Fitting, Adapter, Female Pipe Flare Tee -4 AN, 1/8 in. NPT, -4 AN, Steel, Each
(3) $7.88 US -- 3x AER-FBM1011 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -4 AN, -4 AN Adapter, Steel, Natural/Red, Each

Oil Return Parts...
(1) $19.00 US -- 1X AER-FCA1003 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -10 AN, 3 Ft. Length, Each (You Can Cut Shorter)
(2) $9.25 US -- 2X AER-FCM1014 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -10 AN, -10 AN Adapter, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each
(1) $15.95 US -- 1X AER-FCM2024 Fitting, Adapter, 45 Degree -10 AN Male to 1/2 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each
(1) $6.95 US -- 1X AER-FCM2009 Fitting, Adapter, Straight -10 AN Male to 1/2 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each

This "How To" is the work of Brian MP5T. For any extra information or questions, please refer to http://msprotege.com or e-mail Brian